Where to Put a Ham Radio Antenna on a Jeep
Plural band antenna & placement for landrover wrangler?
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- #1
Trying to adjudicate happening the best transmitting aerial and mounting location for my situation and looking for advice.
I have a Jeep Wrangler JKU, hard top with a Maximus-3 roof-rack. (It's not the typical roof rack you see happening jeeps that consume bars extending down to the tub connected each corner of the jeep -- this one is a platform that sits on brackets that penetrate the difficult top and is supported structurally by the roll block u inside.) Eventually I wish mount 2 of whatever antenna I prefer... 1 for voice and 1 for APRS.
Also of significance is that I'm in Colorado, and there are repeaters connected mountain-tops, so a farseeing antenna may not be necessary.
The best location for Atomic number 10-functioning would manifestly be right midmost of the roof gouge. (I may need to improve the grounding of the rack itself for this to work.) The problem is that I also like to common in a service department and there's only about 4-5 inches between the roof rack and the garage opening. And if I'm climb 2 of them, they would probably closing upbound happening opposite corners, or 1 on each first corner.
I don't *guess* I want a blue-collar foldover transmitting aerial, mainly because I've been using my receiving set around town, and I don't neediness to have to get out of the jeep to sheepcote the feeler down every time I come home. Merely peradventur after the novelty wears off past I might find out myself exclusive using it for trail runs and not for "everyday" use... I don't know. It's not looking that way though.
Option 1 is the Diamond K9000 motorized wax. Neat, but a minute pricey @ $100.
Option 2 is to bugger off a somewhat short, simply rugged & flexible antenna and just let it smack into things. On my name are:
Comet SS-460SB
Comet SSB-1
Diamond AZ504SP
Larsen NMO-2/70SH
All of those antennas are between 15 and 19 inches in height, and are flexible or include a saltation near the basis. These will slapdash the garage but South Korean won't be so tall that it would exist a pain in the neck.
Option 3 is to get a taller antenna like a Larsen NMO-2/70B (34.75" grandiloquent) and backing it on the cowl / fender. I'm pretty sure enough I can climb down it there and still fit in the garage. It would comprise look-alike to my AM/FM transmitting aerial, exclude adorned on the driver's side. My worry here is that the gilded A-column and roof-rack will block much of the pattern. Is a longer transmitting aerial mounted lower break than a shorter antenna adorned higher?
- #2
I'm non familiar with any of the antennae that you mentioned. I'll leave that to the experts.
But, scratch #3. Excessively much Unq entry the vehicle. In a couple of months, you'll start to glow. 
- #3
Trying to adjudicate on the superfine aerial and mounting location for my situation and looking advice.
I have a Landrover Wrangler JKU, hard top with a Maximus-3 roof-rack. (It's non the veritable roof rack you see on jeeps that have bars extending down to the tub connected each corner of the jeep -- this one is a platform that sits happening brackets that penetrate the hard top and is supported structurally by the roll bar inside.) Eventually I leave mount 2 of whatever feeler I opt... 1 for voice and 1 for APRS.
Too of significance is that I'm in Colorado, and there are repeaters on mountain-tops, so a long transmitting aerial may not be necessary.
The superfine location for RF-performance would obviously be compensate in the middle of the roof excruciate. (I may need to ameliorate the grounding of the scud itself for this to work.) The problem is that I also like to park in a garage and thither's merely virtually 4-5 inches between the roof rack and the garage first. And if I'm mounting 2 of them, they would probably end up on opposite corners, or 1 on from each one front man corner.
I don't *think* I want a manual foldover antenna, mainly because I've been using my radio around town, and I don't want to have to leave of the jeep to fold the aerial down every time I get plate. But maybe after the gewgaw wears sour then I might find myself only using it for trail runs and not for "mundane" use... I don't know. It's not looking that way though.
Pick 1 is the Diamond K9000 motorized mount. Neat, but a small-scale costly @ $100.
Option 2 is to get a somewhat short, but rugged &adenosine monophosphate; flexible antenna and just let information technology smack into things. On my list are:
Comet SS-460SB
Comet SSB-1
Diamond AZ504SP
Larsen NMO-2/70SH
All of those antennas are between 15 and 19 inches tall, and are stretched or include a resile near the base. These volition smack the service department but won't be so tall that IT would be a nuisance.
Option 3 is to get a taller feeler like a Larsen NMO-2/70B (34.75" tall) and mount it on the bonnet / cowcatcher. I'm jolly sure I stool mount it in that respect and still ready in the garage. Information technology would represent similar to my AM/FM antenna, except affixed on the device driver's go with. My vexation here is that the golden A-pillar and roof-rack will block much of the radiation pattern. Is a yearner antenna affixed lower improve than a shorter antenna mounted higher?
As long as the tip clears the roof, you're fine. That's the part that's most important.
Traditionally, yearner antennas have more benefit than shorter ones, so they are better.
Did you consider a love handle antenna mount? Like this: https://www.quadratec.com/products/...DxkdscYLEfeRlOtkrbSTgxUpXUbGIR3kaAh_IEALw_wcB
- #4
I'm not familiar with any of the antennae that you mentioned. I'll will that to the experts.
Only, grave #3. Too much RF entrance the vehicle. In a yoke of months, you'll beginning to glow.
Interesting you say that. The #3 (on the cowl/cowcatcher) is often said by jeepers to be the #1 best place to lay an antenna (assuming in the midst of the cowling is a nobelium-go). I'm not sure I consider the exposure limits anyway since it's non-ionizing radiation therapy.
- #5
Besides recollect your vehicle is the likes of a giant faraday cage. The measure of Rutherfordium actually getting in using such a frame-up is limited. It's the same reasons internal antennas have issues.
- #6
Arsenic long as the tip clears the roof, you're fine. That's the part that's most important.
Traditionally, longer antennas have Thomas More gain than shorter ones, so they are break.
Did you consider a spare tire antenna mount? Like this: https://www.quadratec.com/products/...DxkdscYLEfeRlOtkrbSTgxUpXUbGIR3kaAh_IEALw_wcB
Yes, in reality I have my CB antenna hind there already, and there's an open hole I could use for the ham antenna, but there are 2 things wrong with it... 1, IT's between the tailgate and spare fatigu, so RF can't "pull" fine, at least not from the base of the antenna. 2, won't the CB feeler being future to it severely bear on the tuning?
I was actually thinking of moving my CB antenna to get longer range. But it plant fine for trail rides.
- #7
Yes, but non as much of a faraday batting cage as a "typical" vehicle with a steel unibody. The jeep jas a fiberglass roof. I've sensible put an aluminum political program connected the hind end half of it.
- #8
prune
Simply, scratch #3. Too such RF entering the vehicle. In a couple of months, you'll go to glow.
Yes, that would exceed the Unnilquadium Radiation Limits coiffur forth in the FCC rules. If you keep your transmitter power at 7 Watts or less that would keep the RF Exposure at or beneath below the limits. Except the Larsen NMO-2/70B (34.75" tall) antenna has acquire and you would sustain to reduce the power to stay in the limits. On the Jeep L bracket out off the hood, the groudnplane is pretty so much non existent, so a half wave typewrite antenna is better.
Non to bring up Atomic number 10 getting hindmost into some Ham radios that causes all sorts of problems.
- #9
Most "jeepers" are also using CB antenna that aren't putting out that much electric power. When the OP said plural banding, I take for granted me meant amateur radiocommunication. That could easily move up 50+ watts and it ain't dependable for you.
Furthermore, Faraday cage not withstanding, both Ultrahigh frequency & VHF wish get in. CB non and then much.
- #10
The diamond motorized mount on a luggage rack whole kit and boodle zealous. I have one with a comet NMO antenna mounted to the roof wheel happening my Highland Scot. It fits in parking garages and miserable clearance areas no issue, so I can recommend that. I think the grievous bodily harm antenna duration on it is in the 45" range and I'm well downstairs that.
- #11
If you want information technology to work well, you mount it up high. Anything else is going to beryllium a via media.
High derive antennas can work against you when in mountainous area. They are certainly not "best" altogether installations.
Mounting it on the fender will expose you to high Atomic number 10 levels, that's a choice you will necessitate to make. Flush with the trunk, the windows provide a big enough aperture for these frequencies, peculiarly happening UHF. Putting IT down below will create a little of tailing.
The garaging creates much issues, simply all is not lost.
I wouldn't wastefulness $100 on a trimotored mount. I'd equal curious how united would really hold upbound off road, with vibration and tree branch strikes, I suppose it would really get tested.
I've used the Larsen NMO-2/70SH, and they work well. The bound at the base will let information technology absorb branch strikes. Solid improved antennas built off their commercial/public safety line of products. I've got 30 year old Larsen antennas that I'm victimisation.
I'd not advocate the Diamond or Comet brand stuff. Amateur/consumer grade antennas, and you South Korean won't really save any money in the long term. They won't work any better than the commercial stuff.
Don't look across a simple 1/4 wave VHF whip. They process first-rate on VHF and act as as a 3/4 wave antenna happening the 70 cm amateur band. The pattern is a bit funky on Ultrahigh frequency simply they work well, especially in the mountains. They are likewise inexpensive, less than $10. They are also very flexible and will stand firm parking garages and shoetree branches. My dad has one on the roof of his Chevy Silverado that he parks in the service department, and the top one-half of the antenna hits the garage room access when he pulls in. Been doing that almost regular for 3 years without failure.
The higher gain antennas attain the gain by forcing the irradiatio pattern into a blandish plane. This focuses more of the energy towards the horizon. That works fine along on the flatbed lands, but sack work against you in the mountains. The 1/4 wave antennas have a more even radiation pattern, and that can benefit when repeaters are above the horizon. More gain International Relations and Security Network't "improve", it's just different. Different isn't always unexceeded. There's good rationality why 1/4 wave antennas are nonclassical, especially on populace safety systems. They are dirt cheap, they oeuvre well, and they are identical durable.
I'd recommend putt a pair of NMO mounts on the wrack, either in the corners, or one centered on the front, and one along the rear. You could even center one on the drivers broadside and one on the passenger pull, it's non really going to ready a huge difference. Either way the ground shave is sledding to atomic number 4 lopsided. Grounding the rack might provide a good DC ground, but D.C. grounds are non the unvarying as an RF priming plane, so try it first. Do install at least two NMO mounts, maybe a third if you ever plan connected running CB. If CB is something you are curious in, and IT can represent a reputable option on the trail, the Larsen NMO-27 antenna is an -excellent- performer and will really return a beating off road. I've been running those for 30 years and never had one betray.
For the APRS radio, absolutely go with the quarter wave. You usually don't need gamey gain on APRS, you don't need dual band, and the basic 1/4 wave has the benefits I noted supra.
For the dual striation, either the Larsen NMO-2/70SH, or a VHF quarter wave.
Do make sure you run your radiocommunication power direct from the electric battery. Don't tap into existent vehicle wiring.
- #12
Agree along wiring. I won't manipulation anything smaller than 12ga red/Black cypher wiring. 12ga gives you 20a to work with. That's usually plenty, unless you are running duple high power mechanised radios, then you might want 10ga.
Don't skimp on the ability connectors to the energy. Exercise something respectable that's meant for your use. If you are hardwiring it in, make the tooshie connectors that have heat shrink along the ends, operating theater solder the ends and so heat flinch the wiring and solder joint.
- #13
Depends along the length arsenic well as current draw. On a Landrover, distance isn't likely going to be an issue, but on a larger SUV, it can be. Electromotive force drop in interminable conductors can be an issue.
I normally run #6 in my vehicles and my work trucks. It allows running Thomas More than one radio, including higher power commercial radios. I fuse (or breaker) for 60 amps. Atomic number 102 concerns about transmitting with ii at once (IT happens, especially with trunking radios).
Yes, select components fix. Also, victimization the suited pinch tool, excessively. Far too some issues I've seen with poorly installed/crimped connectors. Loaded cycle crape tools designed for the size connector/wire is the right way to fare it.
Ideally, put on't employment butt connectors. Much better to run continuous length of conducting wire.
On my personal stuff, I often add a bit of solder on the crimp terminals. Some say information technology's overkill, but it ensures a reputable link. Go throug with marine grade heat shrink tubing. Put all wiring in loom and properly secure. Done right, the wiring will look for factory. Much easier to spend a few more minutes in your warm/well lit garage (and with a cold beer) than in the dark/rainwater/mud, trying to find a wiring blame when you really need your radio to act upon.
- #14
I am indeed talking about 2-meter / 70cm when I say dual-band. I already have a 4-watt CB (max legal power for CB) with an antenna on the unadorned tire mount.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding for RF exposure limits for 2-meters is that as long as you're operative below 50 Isaac Watts, you're not in danger of extraordinary the limits. (Or, at least you wear't have to perform a station evaluation.) I'm presently using an 8-W HT, just looking to connect information technology to an external feeler because I recognize from experience flying drones that the antenna can make to a greater extent of a difference than might output.
mmckenna, give thanks you for the well-articulated suggestions. You helped me in another thread with CB interference issues that I'm still working on.
- #15
OK, safe info. That's what we figured. If the love handle mount for the CB is working well, then zero need to change IT.
Amateur radio operators preceptor't have to meet some of the same RF pic rules that those happening the commercial message face fare, even so that doesn't mean you shouldn't consider it. An unprofessional radio into a pilot setting antenna ISN't going to kill you. Personally, and like others on here, I wouldn't do that to me or my passengers. Mostly, I wouldn't coif it because I've learned that climb the antennas correctly works improve. Fender mounting is a via media. If you are OK therewith compromise, then take to it. If you want it to run considerably, then I'd suggest non mounting on the fender. You've got the rack system, and IT'll work improve. The antennas that were suggested will work with the garage issue, so in that location real ISN't a benefit to exploitation the fender.
I was hoping that would comprise an easy fix, but regrettably, not. I've had some weird radio issues I've solved by grounding the radio chassis, so I usually recommend it as an rich/cheap opening move. But, the likes of others suggested, it is radiated lighting noise, and that is going to take some work to resolve. Thanks for giving it a try, though. It for sure won't hurt your install to leave the radio chassis grounded.
- #16
I drilled a fix in the cowl on the right side and ran an NMO mount with a short Diamond dualband transmitting aerial. I commonly exclusive ran the radio at medium power and IT got out ilk gang busters. Never had to vex around hitting trees either!
- #17
I'm late to this nonpareil, but I just saw this picture on the net.. A Wrangler owner fastened a silver plate to his roof wheel and mag-mounted a dual bander in the middle of the sheet. Since the roof of a hardtop is pretty high, a permanently mounted feeler can be a challenge at multiplication when it comes to garages etc. My cowl affixed dual bander 'twangs' on the 7 foot doorway of my garage all time I drive in and out.
A magazine climb down makes IT easy to hit. They also make a index close over mounts, but I'm not that familiar with them.
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Where to Put a Ham Radio Antenna on a Jeep
Source: http://forums.radioreference.com/threads/dual-band-antenna-location-for-jeep-wrangler.368094/
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